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2003.08.21 - Gotta love Lockheed! I was sent to California on a
business trip for the week of August 18th, and since the airfare was the same for me to fly
back on Friday or Sunday, my boss said that it would be fine for me to take a few days for
myself at the end of the trip. My first thought was, "What mountain can I go climb!?!" After
doing a bit of research on the area, I narrowed it down to two candidates: Half Dome at
Yosemite or Lassen Peak in Lassen Volcanic National Park. I spoke with some friends, and was
convinced that Yosemite would be far too crowded to find the true wilderness experience for
which I was searching. As a result, Lassen would become my destination of choice!
I arrived back in San Francisco at around 8 PM on Thursday, 21 August. The
last part of my business trip, which took place in Anaheim, ended a bit earlier than
expected, so I was able to catch an earlier standby flight out of LAX. At this point, I was
able to move some of my trip plans forward; instead of sleeping somewhere near the Bay Area,
I would head North and stay as close to the National Park as possible.
After several hours of driving, I grew too tired to drive all the way into
Lassen Volcanic National Park. A small motel in Red Bluff provided me with an inexpensive
yet comfortable bed for the night, which turned out to be a great investment at $24.95. I
drug my tired body into the room around 1 AM on the 22nd and simply collapsed onto the bed.
Although I had been staying in some very nice hotels during the business portion of my trip,
this night actually provided me with a far better rest than any of the others. The next
morning would mark the true beginning to my time near the volcano.
2003.08.22 - I awoke at 07:00, an amazingly late hour for a true
alpine start into the day. Since my plan was only to tour the areas of the park below
8,500', though, I wasn't really losing any time. Before leaving Red Bluff, I needed to stop
for fuel (car and stove) and food, so I found the cheapest gas station in the area and
filled up my tank for the "inexpensive" price of $2.13/gallon (on the lowest octane rating).
Inside the convenience store, I got some snacks and was advised that there was a camp store
in the park that should have stove fuel. Happy to find out that I didn't need to make another
stop, I was off toward the park at about 08:00.
The Southwest entrance station to Lassen Volcanic National Park is little
more than 45 minutes away from Red Bluff. The first part of the drive, beginning along the
eastern edge of the Sacramento Valley, was reminiscent of US 64 in Northeastern New Mexico;
large, dark lava rocks were scattered all over the area. The road continuously gained and
gave back elevation across the hills, until the 3000-foot level, where a more or less steady
rate of ascent began. Not far down the road was the turnoff toward the park's entrance
station. I arrived and paid my $10.00 entrance fee, and was soon off to experience Lassen
National Park.
The weather wasn't cooperating with my plans for the day. My primary goal was
a 2.2 km trail leading down to one of the more prevalent geothermal areas in the park,
Bumpass Hell. The clouds hung low and even touched several or the trail's higher crests.
Temperatures were around 40°F, however, the on-and-off rain made it a cold, dreary day. Not
knowing when I would be in this area again, I didn't have the luxury of waiting for more
favorable conditions. There were very few others on the trail when I began the brief hike,
and luckily, the clouds would part long enough for me to appreciate the wonders of Bumpass
Hell.
Kendall Bumpass was one of the first white men to happen upon this area. It
now bears his name not for his discovery of the feature, but because his foot broke through a
thin layer of rock and dirt which concealed super-heated just below the surface. His leg was
so badly burned that it required amputation upon Bumpass' return to civilization. In modern
times, the Parks Service has built wooden walkways to prevent current guests from endurding
the same fate as Bumpass Hell's namesake. Boiling lakes, mudpots, & fumaroles more extensive
than those at the Sulfur Works are all found here, however the brief hike deters many of the
park's visitors, who tend to prefer the Sulfur Works' more convenient location along the
highway.
After having a brief weather-window where I could take down my hood and see
all of the sights in the area, the rain quickly moved back in. I hiked uphill back to the
parking lot where my rental car was waiting. The whole tour only took 1.5 hours including the
time I spent looking around. Getting on the road again, I headed East toward the road's crest
near the Lassen Peak trailhead.
The eastern side of the mountain was significantly drier; the clouds were
still present, but the rain had finally abated. Taking advantage of the more favorable
conditions, I stopped throughout the day to take several pictures of various sites within the
Park. Since the rain didn't let me get any photos of the activity at Bumpass Hell, the more
frequented Sulfur Works would have to suffice.
After a full-day of hikes, photos & scrambling (acclimatization near the
Lassen trailhead), I drove to the trailhead and parked my car for the night. My sleeping bag
provided the perfect temperature for car camping, and even though the mercury dove outside, I
was warm and toasty all night long.
2003.08.23 - After a realtively good sleep at 8,460 ft, I woke up at
about 05:00 to a brilliantly blue sky; the previous day's clouds had given way to one of the
most beautiful scenes that I had ever seen. Rather than getting up and hitting the trail, as I
had initially intended, I instead pulled a jacket over my head to get just a bit more sleep.
Another hour passed before I finally decided to drag my lazy rear-end out of bed and get ready
for the climb. I fine-tuned my pack with the equipment that I would take up to the summit, and
I also ate a quick, cold breakfast since I had wasted so much time sleeping. Just as I was
about the hit the trail, another climber named Gene from Klamath Falls, OR came over and we
started talking. I found out that he was going to be climbing with a friend, Sam Wong, whom he
had met on Mt. Shasta a few weeks prior. Whereas my intent for the trip was to climb the
highest point in Shasta County, Gene's ultimate goal is to climb all of America's Cascade
volcanoes (possibly Meager Mountain and Mt. Garibaldi in British Columbia as well). After a
short but pleasant discussion, we both wished each other good luck as I began walking up the
trail.
The Lassen Peak trail is truly a super-highway when it comes to most
backcountry hikes. A wide track switchbacks consistently upward, though it never becomes
overly steep. I was in no hurry to jog up the mountain since I wanted to test out the video
camera that I had recently purchased. The previous day, I decided to make a rather cheesy
documentary about Lassen Volcanic National Park for my family and friends back home. It was
only after getting back to Texas and watching the video myself that I realized how goofy the
whole thing turned out! With my frequent video stops, Gene caught up to me after about 1 mile.
He introduced Sam, a designer at Intel, and the three of us decided to stick more-or-less
together for the remainder of the hike.
As we marched higher and higher, Gene began to pull away from us. It turned
out that Sam had the same model video camera that I did, and we both had similar intentions to
document our hike. Passing several information plaques, we eventually made it to some magma
outcrops just below the crater rim. As soon as we crested the final rise, a breath-taking view
of Mt. Shasta greeted us in the morning light. For Gene and Sam, it gave a reminder of their
accomplishment from 3 weeks earlier; for me, it provided a new mountaineering challenge to be
tackled.
Sam and I stopped briefly for some more pictures as Gene continued on the
trail to the only required snow-crossing of the day. The path had worn through the top
meter-or-so of the snowfield, though even at full height there was very little exposure to
contend with. As I was crossing, I noticed that the snow ran down beside the ridge we had just
ascended for at least 500 ft, which would make for a great snowclimb for most of the summer
season. Sam and I both chose to take the Class 3 route variation which goes just South (R) of
the ridge-proper that leads to the summit. There were only 2 moves that could be rated Class
3, though the scrambling finish did let us pop out almost directly onto the summit to the
surprise of the other hikers.
At the top, the wind had really picked up, making it difficult to stay
upright. Gene, Sam and I exchanged summit photos and e-mail addresses; I now have climbing
companions to call whenever I venture into the Pacific Northwest! After about 30 minutes of
enjoying the view, I bid them a fond farewell and began my descent.
Before leaving on this trip, I purchased a new pair of trail-runner / hiker
hybrid Merrells' that would be broken-in during my hikes in and around Lassen. Previous
experience told me that the descent from the summit would be terrible since I hadn't really
had enough time to break the shoes in. In reality, however, they performed like a dream! I
actually jogged most of the way down and didn't develop a single hot-spot. The shoes also
prevented my toes from banging into the tip of the shoe like usually happens on a descent. I'm
not one for unsolicited product plugging, but these shoes worked great!
I arrived back at the car just a few minutes after 11:00 PDT, making for
slightly over 3 hours round-trip. Jumping in for the drive back to the San Francisco airport,
I resolved to come back to Lassen Volcanic National Park at some point in the future. This had
been a great trip!
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Lassen Peak's summit hides somewhere in those clouds
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Chaos Crags from the North
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Kings Creek Meadow
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A mudpot in the Sulphur Works
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Bambi & Faline pose at dusk
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Surrounding peaks on the trail
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Lassen's summit from 9,000 ft
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Brokeoff Mountain
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Lassen's Summit Crater
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Looking in the snow-filled crater
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Preparing for the final pitch
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View of Brokeoff over the E pinnacle
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Mt. Shasta from the summit (4,317 m)
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Benchmark at 3,189 m (10,462')
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Sam standing near the summit
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Gene on the Cascades' South terminus
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Your truly off-balance on Lassen's west summit block
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Class 3 route to summit in green;
Class 2 route in red
Photo by Thomas Burkholder
Editing by Daniel Smith
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