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2005.07.15 - Day 1: Ivy League Hiking 101
After the all-too-familiar and all-too-tedious drive from Fort Worth to
Colorado, Carol and I found ourselves in the mile-high plus vicinity of Colorado Springs.
The itinerary for the day had us driving out to the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness, and
making camp in Horn Fork Basin for the next day's intended climb up Mt. Harvard. With no
real time pressures to speak of, we stopped in at a local coffee shop for a shot of
caffeine and several water bottles full of, you guessed it, water. We spread out all of
our gear in a remote corner of the parking lot and spent the time here sorting what we
needed and what we could leave behind. There was enough in the "leave" pile that our packs
wouldn't be too heavy for a two-day try at Harvard.
We drove out U.S. 24 past Manitou Springs and Woodland Park, eventually
reaching the broad Arkansas River Valley. Crossing the old Republic of Texas border, I felt
much more at home as we entered Buena Vista. ;-) Carol & I stopped at a convenience store
to change into hiking clothes and soon were off up the rough road to the North Cottonwood
Creek trailhead; I had seen this route described as passable to passenger vehicles, which
it indeed was as evidenced by the beat-up Impala parked at the TH. Let me add this
however... If you value your non-high-clearance vehicle, do not take it up here! Granted
I'm just a hick Texan, but I wouldn't want to get my Corolla on rocks and potholes such as
those found on the approach road. That being said, our new Ford Escape Hybrid did a great
job navigating quickly up this rough track! The fancy-shmancy navigation system even had
the Forest Roads pictured, so we always knew where we were.
At the trailhead on this Friday morning, there were only a few cars
present. Carol and I gathered together the gear we would need for the next two days, and
pooled all of our unnecessary "smellables" into a plastic bag that we subsequently hung a
good distance off in the woods. Call me paranoid, but I didn't really want a hungry black
bear breaking out a window. Just after noon, we had everything ready to go, so we packed
out under surprisingly peaceful skies. That was clearly about to change.
After only a few minutes of hiking on the level, dusty trail, we met up
with a large group of boyscouts on their way out from backpacking in the Collegiate Peaks
Wilderness. Throughout the rest of the day we would meet up with a few other small groups,
but all things considered, it was very sparse for a weekend on a fourteener. The highway
of a trail was very easy to follow and surprisingly calm as it meandered above the course
of North Cottonwood Creek. The stream sung a simple melody that served not only to draw us
further up the basin, but to also drown out the distant rumble of the not yet visible
clouds. After a short time, we had covered the 1.5 miles up to the creek crossing. As
Carol led us up the trail into Horn Fork Basin thae grade became markedly steeper. With my
~60 lb pack, I was getting tired much more quickly than normak; it had been quite a few
years since I had carried such a heavy pack at a similar altitude, and I truly
underestimated the effort.
Slowly but steadily, we picked our way higher into the beautiful basin.
All of a sudden our bodies were rattled by a deafening clap of thunder. It was difficult
to tell exactly where the bolt had struck, but the way the valley was shaped, any nearby
strike would funnel its noise down the valley. Only a few seconds later the rain began to
fall. It was light at first, but the drops grew into large projectiles pelting our packs
and clothes. As quickly as possible, Carol and I threw on rain gear and pack-covers. As we
somewhat reluctantly pushed onward and upward with thunder and lightning as our ever-
present companions.
After a half-hour of slogging into the cold, wet atmospehere, the
menacing clouds began to break. Very quickly, the sun came back out and warmed is up
considerably. We went from Seattle to Houston in 15 minutes! The hike sped up in the more
comfortable conditions, and be fore long, we started to pass several good camp sites.
Our intent was to climb up as high as possible to make the summit day shorter. A swampy
area presented a minor slow down, but soon we came to an idyllic meadow at the base of Mt.
Columbia's west slopes.
Throughout the rest of the day, we ate some leftover pizza, bushed our
teeth, took out contacts and hung the bear bags. As the sun was setting, we settled in to
bed. We decided that given the quickly building storms earlier, we would need to keep a
close eye on the weather.
2002.07.16 - Day 2: Big Decisions
At precisely 4:00 AM, I was loathe to hear my friend Mark's voice
incessantly screeching "Wake Up!" Time for an aside...
A few years ago, I received a recordable travel alarm clock for
Christmas. While visiting Mark in El Paso, he recorded the annoying message and set the
alarm as a prank. Though the clock & message brought out their desired effect, I couldn't
bring myself to change the message; it did a "great" job at waking me up.
... Ok, I'm back now. Blindly swinging my hand through the darkness, I
fought through the desire to kill my friend, or at least his recorded voice, and shut off
the alarm. Fully awake, both Carol and I debated on who should be the one to emerge from
the tent first to check on conditions. In my undying effort to be the epitome of
chivalry, I bravely stumbled out of the tent into the pre-dawn coldness. I looked up
expecting to see the fullness of the Milky Way spread out overhead, however, there were
many puffy obstructions to my anticipated view. I crawled back into the tent and told
Carol that some clouds had already begun to form. The decision was easy; given our
electric experience on Mt. Evans a few years prior, the current conditions were not
conductive, er, conducive to a hike that day. We happily crawled back into the sleeping
bags to await sunrise.
A few hours later, we both got moving and started to break down the
camp. The sky was a crystal clear blue, and for quite a while, I debated on just heading
up anyway. Better judgement won out, and after a small breakfast, Carol and I began to
descend the basin toward our car.
The hike went relatively quickly, but the conditions were noticeably
warmer and more humid than the day before. The mosquitos were out in force, so we didn't
stop much during our descent. Before very long, we arrived at the trailhead ready to get
moving. I packed up the car while Carol retrieved the "smellables" bag and we were soon
on the bumpy track back to civilization.
Now with pleanty of time to second-guess, I was frustrated to have not
climbed up Harvard. Could we have made it up to the top? Yes. Could we have beaten any
bad weather? Probably. Was I really regretting the decision to descend? No. This feeling
was further justified when we looked up at ~10 AM to see some truly menacing clouds
building some three hours before the storms had materialized on the previous day. If we
had left for the summit at 5 AM as planned, we definitely would have been off before the
lightning began, but it would have been very close getting back down below treeline. At
the end of it all, we had made a very good decision.
Driving back to Colorado Springs, the discussion turned to some sort of
Plan B; we hadn't made it to a summit, but more importantly, we hadn't gotten enough
vertical feet on Harvard to support the WCFF donations like we wanted. Carol and I traded
various ideas before finally agreeing on Pikes Peak's Northwest Ridge. We could drive high
enough to roughly equal our elevation on Harvard and then follow the ups and downs of the
ridge to make up the remaining vertical. The accessibility of the trailhead and route was
another plus as I needed to be back for work on Monday morning.
With high hopes for the next day, we drove around the Springs trying to
decided if it would be a good place to live. All signs pointed to yes, so after going to
Mass but before turning in, we went out for some much deserved LCRT (liquid carb
replacement therapy). Even though I was really looking forward to the next day, I didn't
have any trouble falling asleep.
2002.07.17 - Day 3: Pikes Peak Or Bust
This final morning, another early start was in order. The rising of the
Sun saw Carol and I packing away the last of our gear into the car, with dayhiking
provisions readily accessible. Since the road up the peak wouldn't open until 7:00, we
munched on a leisurely breakfast at the hotel.
As soon as we got on the road, both of us remarked how little traffic
there was on the normal tourist routes. Take note! If you can help it, Sundays are much
better to visit Colorado Springs than summer Saturdays. We again drove up US 24 through
Manitou Springs, but this time turned off toward the Pikes Peak auto road. There were
several groups in ahead of us. Paying the $20.00 fee, we began the slithering drive up
to the Devil's Playground.
After the brief auto ascent, we pulled into the parking lot and got out
the few provisions that might be needed during our hike. Carol was feeling a bit cooler
than I, so she threw on a shell jacket as we started off to the ridge. In order to maximize
the vertical gain, we started walking along the well-worn track but shortly worked up to
the ridge crest. Carefully, avoiding the tundra vegetation, Carol and I hopped from rock to
rock across the treeless plain.
Contouring along the gentle ridge was relatively easy despite the
altitude; both of us were feeling fairly strong since we had been up at treeline just one
day prior. We talked back and forth, which made the first section of the route fly by. We
saw several pika and one marmot as we made our way over "Little Pikes," and descended
toward the final saddle before the big rock pile. We noticed a small group of hikers
slightly ahead of us on the talus slope.
We came upon one more marmot who was very much hoping for a hand-out near
the saddle. Not willing to oblige him, Carol and I hurried on to reach the last leg of the
route up the large blocks of talus. We stuck to the trail as much as possible, but
eventually settled on the path of least resistance, straight up. Making great time, we
quickly passed by the group of hikers who we had previously seen; they were a group
Colorado Springs locals climbing Pikes Peak for the first time. The wind blew at our backs
as we hopped up the shifting granite slabs; it urged us ever upward until we finally topped
out on Pikes Peak's plateau. (Like the alliteration?)
With the hike behind us, Carol and I casually strolled over to the
highest rock, a few feet higher than any of the benchmarks. After taking the usual summit
photos, we enjoyed the rewards that make Pikes Peak a truly unique destination! Mountain
Dew, pizza and hamburgers were our lunch fare, with a t-shirt and hat filling out our gift
shop purchases. We roamed around the large summit for awhile before starting our descent.
We followed the same ridge route we had taken earlier, in order to
maximize the elevation gain. The short uphill portions were not too strenuous, and before
long, we had made our way back to the Escape. Before leaving for Texas, we drove up to the
top to get a picture of the car on its first Fourteener; we were evan able to get the tire
up on one of the summit rocks! We then started our descent back toward the Lone Star State.
Looking back, the weekend had been a great success! Despite the problems
on Mt. Harvard, the hike up Pikes Peak allowed us to book the same amount of vertical gain
that we had forecasted: 4,113 ft. The best outcome was definitely the amount of money and
food that were raised to support the hungry in Fort Worth. Carol and I really enjoyed
being able to help others while at the same time having an enjoyable outdoor experience. I
have a strong feeling that this will not be the last "Will Climb For Food"!
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Escape to Pikes Peak
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Carol signs in to the trail register
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Lower Horn Fork Basin
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The flanks of Mt Columbia
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Camp I
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Collegiate Peaks Wilderness
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Approaching Pikes' Northwest Ridge
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Part of the ridge route
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Rumdoodle Ridge from above
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Treading lightly over the tundra
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The final rockpile
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Looking back down the Northwest Ridge
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Summit - 14,117'
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Jacko poses in front of the sign
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